E-tunez Monthly — August 2025
Focus: New Members Area + Knock vs. False Knock
Hi everyone,
Quick update with two useful things this month.
#1 — New Members Area (now in your account)
You’ll see a Members Area under My Account → Members Area. It bundles the stuff you ask for most in one place:
- Monthly Newsletter (archives & latest)
- Priority Support
- Build Sheet (keep your mods current)
- Modification Suggestions
- Dyno Sheet (upload & store results)
- Download Calibrations
- Discord (fast Q&A)
If something you expect isn’t showing, reply and we’ll enable it on your profile.
#2 — Knock vs. False Knock (what to know, what to do)
Knock = actual combustion instability (pressure spikes) the ECU is trying to control.
False knock = noise that looks like knock to the sensor (mounts, heat shields, clutch chatter, loose accessories, exhaust contact, etc.).
How to tell them apart (fast):
- Repeatability: Real knock repeats in the same load/RPM cells; false knock is scattered or tied to bumps/gear changes.
- Fuel/IAT sensitivity: Real knock improves with better fuel or lower IATs; false knock often doesn’t.
- Mechanical check: Torque mounts, inspect heat shields/brackets, verify exhaust clearance, and listen for rattles at the RPM where “knock” shows up.
What to log for us: RPM, throttle, ignition advance, knock count/retard, AFR/λ (wideband if available), IAT, ECT, MAP/MAF V, gear/speed. Do one clean 3rd-gear pull (safe location) plus 60–90s of steady cruise.
What we change (when it’s real):
- Carefully adjust ignition in the affected cells
- Ensure AFR targets and fuel delivery are appropriate under load
- Tidy tip-in/tip-out behavior that can spike cylinder pressure
What we don’t do (when it’s false):
- We don’t “mask” it with blanket sensitivity cuts. We fix the noise source first so the ECU can protect the engine when it matters.
Need a hand?
Log in, grab the Members Area links, and send your latest datalog with a quick note on fuel and mods. We’ll take it from there.
— John @ E-tunez