Hello and welcome to our guide on how to E-Dyno,
As far as WHP goes, I would recommend to do an Edyno. We can do this if you send a log title “Edyno” to email@example.com but I also usually refer the customers to the software themselves so they can run as many pulls as they like. We use www.virtualdyno.net, as its open and freeware so it means anyone can Edyno there car to get an estimate of the WHP it is making,it is usually very accurate (2%) but there are a few key points:
- 1) Make sure the road is level
- 2) Make sure the vehicle weight is accurate
- 3) Make sure the outside conditions are reasonable, no rain, no temp extremes etc. The cool of the evening is usually best.
- 4) Make sure you are in a safe spot to get the 3rd gear pull.
- 5) If you like it, don’t forget to donate, the Edyno relies on those donations.
- 6) When you finally get the Edyno working, never based any adjustments or opinion off just one run. In order to draw a conclusion, at least 4 runs would need to be done on the same stretch of road, 2 in one direction and 2 in the opposite direction.
- With regards to increasing/getting accurate Edyno numbers there are a few key points. Edynos dyno real world HP, there is no correction, its really just what the car is doing at the exact moment. It greatly depends on how level the road is, how warm the air temperature is and the barometric pressure or elevation.
- To increase those numbers, or get more accurate results consider the following:
- 1) Cold air makes a big difference, make sure you’r getting the coldest air possible, heat wrap, coolant bypass etc.
- 2) The TB size and IM type make a big difference in top end, go with the largest possible.
- 3) Go weigh the car the way you intend to e-dyno it, get an accurate number for the Edyno.
- 4) Use at least 93+ Octane fuel.
- 5) Do the Edyno on a perfectly flat and level road.
- 6) Only allow the car 10 minutes warm up time, no more for peak Edyno numbers, no heat soak 🙂
- 7) Do the Edyno in the cool of evening or the morning.
- 8) As close to sea-level as possible.
That should help you get the best possible numbers, and more then that, the car will actually run the fastest under those conditions.
As far as the Edyno itself, in order to do one you to open the log, and truncate everything that is not a WOT run, so before 2k and after redline etc. In Hondata (Kpro or Fpro etc) this done by zooming in on WOT pull portion and right clicking selecting Set as Start and Set as End. You want to capture just the WOT pull. Then we go to datalog and select Export to .csv.
We are now going to open the .csv in Virtuuall Dyno. First we launch the program, and then we open our file, and now we have to select what kind of car the file is from.
If your vehicle is not listed things are more complicated, but doable. You can actually enter the vehicle stats manually under custom car. The gear ratios are found online and once you save the Custom Car, it is listed under “C” alphabetically in the list. Often instead of new a new car in this case, I just pick a 2010 Civic Si Sedan, and then adjust the final gear ratio to match the vehicle you are trying to graph. If the gear ratios are different, then assuming it’s a 3rd gear pull I actually multiply the 3rd gear ratio of the car I am dynoing, by the final drive of the car I am dynoing, and then divide that answer by the 2010 Civic Si gear ratio, and that number that’s left, is what I set the final drive to in Virtual Dyno, and it will compensate for any other gear ratio, assuming the tire size is similar. Its just an easy way to avoid looking up all the stats for Drag and Front area etc, which the custom car asks for. Although most cars have a Drag coefficient of 0.27 and a frontal area of ~20ft^2 if you just want an estimate.
Also once the graph is all done, and things are working, if you notice it is a bit bumpy, don’t forget to play with the smoothing, it really does help make up for things like a bumpy road, or even loose motor mounts which can cause the car to “rock” back and forther on acceleration.
In the end, if it works well for you, don’t forget to donate to the Virtual Dyno, even just $10-$20 etc. The Edyno depends on our support, so I send some money their way myself occasionally as well.😊